: Travels of Lady Hester Stanhope Volume 3 (of 3) by Stanhope Hester Lady Meryon Charles Lewis Editor - Middle East Description and travel; British Middle East History 19th century; Women travelers Middle East Biography; Stanhope Hester Lady 1776-1839 Travel

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THE THIRD VOLUME.

Preparations for a journey to B?lbec--Precautions against the plague--Departure from Meshm?shy--Heavy attire--The author loses his road--Cheerless night--Dr?ze hospitality--Bar?k--Bur Elias--Village of Malaka--Cottages in the Bk?--Hard dumplings--Grumbling servants--Misery of villages in the territory of B?lbec--Mode of encampment--Arrival at B?lbec 1

Residence at B?lbec--Visit to the governor, the Emir Jahj?h--Wretchedness of B?lbec--Bath Scene--Encampment of Lady Hester at Ras el Ayn--Sepulchral caverns--Greek bishop of B?lbec--Catholic priest--Climate--Departure from B?lbec--Any Ayty--Hurricane--Bsharry--Mineral springs--Dress of women--Village of Ehden, conjectured by some to be the site of Paradise--Resort of native Christians --Arrival of Selim, son of M?lem Musa Koblan, of Hamah--The Cedars of Lebanon--Maronite monastery of Mar Antani?s--Lady Hester enters it in spite of the monks--Arrival at Tripoli 15

Residence at Tripoli--The governor Mustafa Aga--Lady Hester's visit to him--Extraordinary civilities paid by her to Selim--Town and port of Tripoli--Greek bishop--Library--Paintings in the church--Unwholesome climate--The author's journey to the convent of Dayr Ham?ra--Illness of M?ly Ismael's Khasnad?r--Miraculous cures performed at the convent--The Khasnad?r's wife--The monks--Castle of El Hussn--Extensive view--Arrival of Selim at the monastery--His character--Return of the author to Tripoli--Lady Hester's plan of an association of literary men and artists--Departure for Mar Elias 41

Journey from Tripoli to Abra--Monastery of Dayr Nat?r--Grave of Mr. Cotter--Ruins of Enfeh--Batr?n--Renegado priest--Remarks on apostates--Gebayl, the ancient Byblus--Mulberry plantations--Castle--Public-houses--Nahr Ibrahim, the river Adonis--Taberjeh--Ejectment of cottagers in rain and cold--Nahr el Kelb, the ancient river Lycus--Inscriptions--Shuif?d--Visit of Lady Hester to the Syt Hab?s--Capugi Bashi sent to Lady Hester--Mb?rak, the groom--His dexterity--Nebby Yunez, the tomb of Jonah--Arrival at Mar Elias--Precautions adopted against the Capugi Bashi 64

Probability of the existence of Hidden Treasures in the East--Manuscript pretending to reveal such Treasures, brought to Lady Hester--She obtains firm?ns from the Porte authorizing her to make researches--She sends to Hamah for M?lem Musa--Her letter to the Pasha of Acre--Her plans for raising money--Journey of the Author to Damascus--His Visit to Ahmed Bey--Ambergris--Damascus sabres--Horse Bazar--Horse Dealing and Horse Stealing--M. Beaudin's night journey to Tyre--His horse stolen--Detection and punishment of the thieves--Return of the Author to Mar Elias--His dangerous situation in a snow-storm--Interior of a Dr?ze Cottage 86

Journey of Lady Hester from Mar Elias to Ascalon--Bussa--Acre--She prevails on Mr. Catafago to accompany her to Ascalon--Illness of Ali Pasha--Professional visits of the Author--Abdallah Bey, the Pasha's son--Extraordinary honours paid to Lady Hester--Her departure from Acre--Tremendous storm--M. Loustaunau; his prophecies--His history--Don Tomaso Coschich arrives with despatches from Sir Sydney Smith to Lady Hester--Substance of them--Presents sent to the care of Lady Hester by Sir Sydney--His character in the East--Caesarea--Um Khaled--Village of Menzel--Jaffa--Mohammed Aga, the governor ordered to accompany Lady Hester--His character--Arrival at Ascalon 116

History of Ascalon--Ruins--Encampments--Forced labour of peasants--Excavations--Fragments of Columns--Discovery of a mutilated statue--Apprehensions of Signor Damiani--Lady Hester orders the statue to be destroyed--Excavations abandoned--Lady Hester's narrative of the motives and results of the researches--Auditing accounts-- Mohammed Aga a fatalist--Return to Jaffa--Derwish Mustafa Aga and Lady Hester's black female slave--Patients--Mohammed Bey; his story--Return of Lady Hester's servant Ibrahim from England--Khurby, or the Ruins--Remains near that spot--Return to Acre--Altercation with muleteers--Excavations at Sayda--Reflexions on researches for hidden treasures 152

Visit of the Author to the Maronite convent in the village of Joon--Abyssinian man and woman--Black horses--Lady Hester fixes herself at Meshm?shy--Solitary wigwam--The Author wishes to return to England--He sets out for Egypt--Destruction of Tyre, not so complete as travellers represent--A self-taught lithotomist and oculist--Seaweeds used for dyeing--Embarkation for Egypt in a vessel laden with wood--Impalement--Passengers on board--Cyprus--Revolt in Gebel Nabl?s--Frequency of insurrections there--Arrival at Rosetta--Smoking during Ramaz?n--The Author is joined by Burckhardt, or shaykh Ibrahim--Mutiny of troops at Cairo--Departure by land for Alexandria--Lake Edko--Stay in Alexandria--Coasting voyage to Damietta--Burckhardt not considered as a Turk--Foreigners betrayed by their speech 188

M. Sur?r, English agent at Damietta--Patients--Excursion to Lake Menzaleh--Mataryah--Melik?n--Pounds for cattle--Ruins of San--Broken pottery--Conjectures on its original use--Tennys--Dybeh--Botarga fishery--Fowling--Running deemed indecorous in a Turk--Menzaleh--Haunted house--Disdain of pedestrian travellers--False door--Departure for Syria--Vessel, cargo, and crew--Charms to raise the wind--Arrival at Acre, Tyre, and Abra 223

Disappearance of Colonel Boutin, a French traveller--Efforts of Lady Hester Stanhope, for investigating his fate--Mission of Abd el Ras?k from Mahannah to Lady Hester--Manners and character of the Bedouins--Story of Mustafa Aga, Khasnad?r of M?ly Ismael, and his wife--Departure of Abd el Ras?k and his companions 254

Quarrel between a Dr?ze and a Metou?ly--Buying of medals--Imposition practised on Lady Hester--Punishment of the offender--Illness and death of the Greek patriarch--Funeral ceremonies--Election of a new patriarch--Cottage in the gardens of Sayda--Long drought--Flocks of birds--Hydrophobia--Excursion of the Author to Gar?fy--Shems ed Dyn and his father--Purchase of wine--Decline of commerce in the Levant--M?lem Dub?ny and his daughters--Extortion of Eastern rulers--Arrival of Miss Williams--Arrival of Mr. Bankes--He copies and removes fresco paintings--Failure of his first attempt to reach Palmyra--Visit of Mr. Buckingham--Locusts--Lady Hester takes a voyage to Antioch 267

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