: Travels of Lady Hester Stanhope Volume 2 (of 3) by Stanhope Hester Lady Meryon Charles Lewis Editor - Middle East Description and travel; British Middle East History 19th century; Women travelers Middle East Biography; Stanhope Hester Lady 1776-1839 Travel

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THE SECOND VOLUME.

Damascus--Ramaz?n--Visit to the Jews--House of the Hayms, brothers of him of Acre--Visit to the Pasha--Compliment of Hadj Mohammed to Lady Hester--Curiosity of the women to see her Ladyship--Their dress--Inefficacy of personal restraints upon women--Fanaticism of the inhabitants of Damascus--Lepers--Amusements of Ramaz?n--Patients attended by the Author--Sulym?n Bey--His malady--His cure--Rural f?te--Sister of Ahmed Bey--Chief families in Damascus--Visits to the sick--The Merge, or place of amusement--Women at prayer 1

Lady Hester's intended journey to Palmyra--Objections to it--Hanah Fakhah--Difficulties of a journey to Palmyra--Illness of Mr. B. on his road from Aleppo to Damascus--The Author goes to his assistance--Osman Aga--Mas?d Aga--Village of Yabr?d--Author's reception by Osman Aga--Carahburgh--Character of Mas?d Aga--Use of Narkyly--Aspect of the Desert--Hamlet of Hassiah--D?rra bread--City of Hems--River Orontes--City of Hamah--M?sa Kobl?n--Visit from him--Arrival of Mr. Barker and Mr. B.--Description of Hamah--Clogs--Waterwheels--Coolness and heat produced by the same means--Costume of the female peasants--Doors of houses--Air--Panoramic prospect--Manufactures--Christians of Hamah--Inundations--Messrs. B. and Barker go to B?albec--Description of Hems--Pyramidal sepulchre--Tomb of Khaled--Citadel--Lake of Hems--Orontes river--Cara--March of troops--Yabr?d--Springs of Ras el ayn--M?l?la--Grottoes and Sarcophagi--Michael Ras?ti--Account of M. Lascaris and of Madame Lascaris--Nebk--Dress of M. Lascaris--His character--Return of the Author to Damascus 31

Precautions against riots--Emir Nasar visits Lady Hester--He dissuades her from going to Palmyra with an escort--Description of Nasar--How entertained--Lady Hester quits Damascus--Reports of her wealth--She takes Monsieur and Madame Lascaris with her--Her interview with the Emir Mahannah--She arrives at Hamah--Departure of Mr. B. and Mr. Barker from Damascus--The Messieurs Bertrand dismissed--Bills of exchange--The Author sets out for Hamah--Mode of travelling--A Caravansery--Gabriel, the poet--Kosair--Kelyfy--Nebk--Turkish adventurer--Khan of Nebk--Mode of washing in the East--Carah--Hassiah--Hamah--The Author lodges with Monsieur and Madame Lascaris--Opportunity for entering the Desert--M. Lascaris resolves to accompany the Author--Bedouin costume--First departure from Hamah 68

The author enters the Desert--Hostile tribes of Bedouins--Beni Khaled Arabs--Their tents, manners, &c.--Arabian hospitality--Tels or Conical mounds--Aspect of the Desert--Want of Water--Hadidyn Arabs--Mountains of Gebel el Abyad--Bedouin horsemen--Bedouin encampment--Mahannah, the Emir--Bedouin repasts--Character of Mahannah--Nature of his authority--His revenue--Means used by the Bedouins to obtain gifts--March of a Bedouin tribe--Contrivance for mounting camels--Gentleness of the camel--Snow--Search for Water--Detention of the author by Mahannah--He is suffered to depart for Palmyra--Encounter with robbers--Plain of Mezah--Disappointment at the distant sight of Palmyra--Arrival there 92

Reflections on the ruins of Palmyra--Wood and Dawkins's plates--Fountain of Ephca--Castle--Tombs--Cottage selected for Lady Hester--Visit to a curious cave--Justinian's wall--Climate and diseases--Salt marshes--Causes of fevers--Air and climate of Palmyra--Gardens, corn-fields, and trees--Sulphureous waters--Dress of the men; and of the women--Departure from Palmyra--Lady Hester sends Giorgio to look for the Author--Fall of snow--The party lose themselves, and sleep in the snow--Encampment of Beni Omar Bedouins--Hassan's unfeeling conduct--Pride of the Bedouins to ride on horseback--Encampment of Ali Bussal--False notions of the hospitality of Bedouins--Partridges of the Desert--Emir of the Melhem--M. Lascaris's scheme of traffic--Arrival of Madame Lascaris--Attack of the Seb?h--Wounded Bedouin--Giorgio goes to Palmyra--The Author returns to Hamah--Ruins of a triumphal arch--Snow-storm--A night in a cavern--Ruined village--Selamyah--Ruined mosque--Hardships endured by Bedouins--Miscellaneous observations on their character and manners 132

Hamah--Inclemency of the weather--Preparations made by Lady Hester for her journey to Palmyra--Conical cisterns--Nazyf Pasha--Abdallah Pasha--Muly Ismael--The governor of Hamah--Appearance of the Plague in Syria--Motives of Lady Hester Stanhope for visiting Palmyra--Price paid to the Bedouins for a safe conduct--Pilfering; particularly by their chief Nasar--Order of march--Sham fights--Tribe of the Seb?h--Arabs on their march--Rude behaviour of Nasar--Gebel el Abiad, or the White Mountain--The Author rides forward to Palmyra--Alarm at Lady Hester's encampment--Her entry into Palmyra--Inspection of the ruins--A wedding--Dress of the women--Fayd?n Bedouins made prisoners--The escape of two of them causes Lady Hester to leave the place 166

Departure from Palmyra--Suspicions of Nasar--Encampment in a beautiful valley--Tribe of the Seb?h and their Shaykh Mnyf--Assembly of Bedouins at Lady Hester Stanhope's tent--The women--Traits of Bedouin character--Tribe of the Beni Omar--Affray between the Bedouins--Their war-cry--Aqueducts--Salam?ah--Clotted cream and sour milk--Meat of the Desert--Castle of Shumam?s--Medical assistance required by Bedouins--Entry of Lady Hester into Hamah-- Sum paid to Nasar for escort--Salubrity of the air of the Desert--State of Lady Hester's health--Professional aid of the Author in requisition--Yahyah Bey--Rigid abstinence of a Syrian Christian--The bastinado--Pilgrimage to the tomb of a shaykh--Treatment of horses in spring--Precautions against plague--Custom of supporting great personages under the arm--Schoolmasters--Doctors and their patients 203

Departure from Hamah--Encampment on the bank of the Orontes--Transformation of aquatic to winged animals--Vale of the Orontes--Cal?t el Medyk--Bridge and village of Shogre--Topal Ali makes himself independent of the Pasha of Aleppo--Singular application of a Jewess--Poverty of the inhabitants of Shogre--Visit to Topal Ali--Gebel el Ker?d--Beautiful Scenery--Tribe of Ans?ry--Lady Hester stays behind among them--Latakia 231

Residence at Latakia--Remains of Antiquity--Port--Gardens--Sycamore--Birdlime tree--Vegetables and fruit--Tobacco--Salt tanks--Sponge fishery--Hanah K?by--Fanaticism of the Turks of Latakia--A Barbary Shaykh--The Plague--Habits of the Mahometans accordant with common sense--Epidemic illness--Impalement of a Malefactor--Ravages of the Plague--Mr. Barker, British Consul at Aleppo, comes to spend some time near Latakia--Hard fate of a Christian--Experiment on a fruit diet--Imprudence of smoking in the streets during Ramaz?n--Amusements--Sporting--Departure of Mr. B. for England--Civility of the Greek Patriarch--Illness of Lady Hester, and of the Author--She supposes her disease to be the Plague--Illness of servants--Scarcity of provisions--Departure for Sayda--Turkish Lugger--Tripoli--Aspect of Mount Lebanon--Arrival at Sayda--Seamanship of the Turks 252

Mode of Life of Lady Hester Stanhope--Imaginary treasures of Gezz?r Pasha--Road to the Convent of Mar Elias--Description of the Convent--Village of Abra--Interior of a cottage--Poverty of the people--Change in the character of Lady Hester--Abra purchased by a Greek Patriarch--Revenues--Tenure of land--Occupations of the peasantry--Herdsmen--Village overseer--Notions of propriety in the behaviour of females--Dread of the plague--Precautions against the infection suggested by Lady Hester to the Emir Besh?r--Visit of the Shaykh Besh?r to Abra--Good breeding of the Turks--Greek monasteries--The patriarch Macarius--M. Boutin--Han?fy, a female slave sent to Lady Hester--Specification of her qualities--Discovery of an ancient sepulchre--Paintings in it copied by Mr. Bankes, and by the Author--Various forms of sepulchres 304

Plague at Abra--Terror occasioned by it--Peasants forsake the village--Alarm of Lady Hester--Imaginary virtues of bezoar and serpent stone--Funerals--Embarrassment of the Author--Illness of his servant--Increase of the contagion--Medical Treatment--Arrival of the Kite sloop of war--Number of victims of the plague--Pilgrimage to the shrine of St. Haneh--Prickly heat--Lady Hester goes to reside at Meshm?shy--Costume of the Dr?zes--Maronite monastery--Camel's flesh eaten--Bridge of Geser Behannyn--Journey of the Author to Bteddyn--Sons of the Emir Besh?r--Wedding at Abra--Moorish Conjuror--Return of Giorgio--Vineyards--Wines--Dibs--Raisins--Olive Harvest--Figs--Country between Abra and Meshm?shy 358

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