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I GO TO PERSIA.

POST JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL.

Preparations for the start--Costume--Chaff bed--First fall--Extra luggage--The whip--Stages and their length--Appearance of the country, and climate--First stage--Turk guides--Welcome rest--Weighing firewood--Meana bug--Turcomanchai--Distances--New friends--Palace of Kerrij 20

TEHERAN.

Teheran--The Director's house--Persian visits--Etiquette--Pipes, details of--Tumbak?--Ceremony--Anecdote--The voice of the sluggard--Persian medicine explained--My prospects as a medico--Zoological Gardens 28

TEHERAN.

The Gulhaek Road--Visit to a virtuoso--His story--Persian New Year--Persian ladies--Titles--The harem--Its inhabitants--A eunuch--Lovely visions--The Dervish--The great festival--Miscellaneous uniform--At the Court of Persia--The Shah--The ceremony--Baksheesh--Rejoicings 36

HAMADAN.

Start for Hamadan--Bedding--Luggage makes the man--Stages--Meet Pierson--Istikhbals--Badraghah--Pierson's house--Hamadan wine--Mode of storing it--My horses--Abu Saif Mirza--His stratagem--Disinterested services--Persian logic--Pierson's horse's death--Horses put through their paces--I buy Salts and Senna--The prince's opinion--Money table--Edict 54

HAMADAN.

Morning rides--Engage servants--Dispensary--A bear-garden--Odd complaints--My servants get rich--Modakel--The distinction between picking and stealing--Servants--Their pay--Vails--Hakim Bashi--Delleh--Quinine--Discipline--I commence the cornet--The result of rivalry--Syud Houssein--Armenians--Cavalry officer--Claim to sanctity of the Armenians--Their position in the country--Jews 64

HAMADAN.


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